How to Make Hemp Jewelry

Making hemp jewelry is definitely a hobby that you can do that is going to be extremely fun and enjoyable and not only that but as well you can make very good money off of it, if you are interested in doing so.

If you are interested in making hemp jewelry, then you should know that there are several factors in particular that you are going to want to take into consideration.

About Making Hemp Jewelry

The first thing that you are going to have to do when you are making hemp jewelry is select the hemp twine that you want to use. The natural tan color is the most popular and commonly used color however there are various different colors that you have to choose from.

You can also pick the size of twine that you want to use, and the size that you should pick will depend on what type of materials you are planning on using on it; for instance if you are going to be using smaller materials than you can go with a smaller size twine, whereas if you are using larger and more heavier materials, than you are obviously going to want to go with a thicker twine.

Even though using materials such as beads and clasps are great, you really do not need anything but the hemp twine for making hemp jewelry, however of course using various materials is going to make it more personalized and unique.

As well the best way to secure your necklace is with a metal clasp, and you will also need to get some cord tips to go with the clasp. The clasps are what go over the ends of the cord of hemp, and there are two different types that you can choose from: the ones with metal flaps that bend over the cord, and the ones with a coil, which at the bottom you have to crimp around the cord itself.

As long as you have patience and are creative, then you are sure to be able to come up with some really great design ideas for your hemp jewelry. It is a natural, fun, and enjoyable jewelry making hobby, and you are sure to love it once you get started.

Also remember that there are plenty of people out there who are experienced at this and so if you ever need help along the way you should not hesitate to find it.

The Catch with Clasps

Posted on February 13, 2008 in Beading Projects, Beading Tips, Good for Beginners, How to Design Jewelry, Techniques by Michele

When I first started beading last summer, I fell in love with it instantly, and I felt that I was a pretty quick study. But I really struggled with clasps, and was less than impressed at my best efforts to end my pieces well. I’d tug and pull at the beading wire, snipping here and there, but it took me a while before I really felt good about the finishes on my work.

At the beginning, crimp covers saved me! What I couldn’t (sanely) accomplish with energetic tugs of the beading wire (pulling it through the eyes of the clasps and getting it to look nice and smooth and well finished), I was able to manage peacefully with crimp covers (see above photo). With them, I never had to worry about whether the beading wire was tight enough, and I never worried with jump rings. I just slid the crimp cover on the beading wire, slid on the crimp bead, crimped it, snipped the excess wire, closed the cover and used the arm of the crimp cover to attach the clasp. It was all simple and lovely. Moreover, a crimped bead inside a crimp cover needn’t be all fancy-schmancy. It is, after all, covered up!

Still, I wanted options for finishing my pieces well. And I wanted really professional looking jewelry in every way, so I kept at the clasp issue. After some trial and error, I got much better. Here are some things I learned along the way.

Having an array of clasps at your disposal helps a lot — lobster claws, barrel clasps, magnetic clasps, hook clasps and toggle clasps (click here to see some examples of clasps here on Beadage). When you finish a piece, you’ll have a variety of clasps to choose from. I certainly have my personal favorites. I really like toggle clasps, as they are great for heavier pieces or a more elegant piece. There are really decorative toggle clasps and really plain and simple ones. I always think that a unique toggle clasp makes the piece standout more, and gives it an added flair.

Let the style of your piece dictate your clasp, or vice-versa. If you’ve been inspired by a particular clasp, create a design that lives up to the clasp. If you’re a jeans-every-day type of girl like me, you might appreciate the practicality of barrel clasps or magnetic clasps. When I create jewelry for myself, I particularly like barrel clasps. When I make jewelry for others, I like using toggle or hook clasps. You can make all the rules!

As for tools, I only use a few when finishing my pieces — chain nose pliers, a nail clipper, crimping pliers and occasionally wire cutters (I’m able to snip beading wire really close with nail clippers, though). Always use crimping pliers for a great result. The crimping pliers have a couple of different dips and grooves so that your crimp bead looks nicely folded and rounded. Use the groove closest to your body to smash the crimp bead in one direction. Using the groove furthest away from you folds the crimp over for a crisp look.

When adding a clasp, thread your crimp bead onto your wire, and then bring the wire through the eye of one end of your clasp. Now bring the wire back down through the crimp bead and use your chain nose pliers to PULL — as tightly as you can to get the crimp bead snug against the clasp. In some instances, though, you may need to allow for a little slack, as some pieces won’t hang correctly if the beads are pulled too taut. So be careful to judge correctly what your piece needs.

When you are ready to string on your beads, be sure to string the excess wire (or ‘tail’) into the first two or three beads. With the tail safely hidden inside these beads, you won’t be able to see where the tail ends, so your crimp and clasp end look smooth and flawless.

Once you’ve strung your beads on and are ready to finish your piece, repeat the process with the clasp and crimp bead that you did on the first end of your piece. You’ll have to use your chain nose pliers to thread the tail through two or three beads. This can be pretty tricky, so you’ll have to work with it for a bit.

When you see the tail peeking out after the third bead or so, pull it tightly so the tail comes down as far as it can. Now you can snip it close to the bead with the nail clippers. Smooth out your beads so that no wire shows through and you’re finished! Certainly smooth and finished pieces, particularly where adding clasps are concerned, can take a little time. But keep at it. The more times you try it, the better you’ll become.

Bead Jewelry Making Pattern: Crystal Pearl Delight Choker

Posted by Eri

Here’s a new bead jewelry making pattern I just completed a video of to show how to make a Crystal Pearl Delight Choker Necklace.

That’s a mouthful!

Bangle Bracelet

Wire wrapped links create a flexible bangle bracelet.
by Connie Fox

What do tangelos, werewolves, and brangles have in common? All three are combinations of 2 elements: tangerine-grapefruit, man-wolf, and bangle-bracelet. The concept of a brangle was introduced to me by a customer several years ago. While playing with the jewelry, she commented “I love the look of a bangle and the feel of a bracelet.” Say no more, the brangle was born.

The brangle presented in this article is a good project for beginning wire workers. The main challenge you will encounter is getting the brangle to fit your wrist. Before you begin, let me offer you some advice that will save both time and money. Make your brangle in copper wire first. You will then feel free to snip, add, and play without the concern of wasting sterling silver.
Your copper practice piece will provide you with a template for reproducing the brangle in silver.

I hope you enjoy the project!

Photo of finished piece by Frank DeSantis; all other photos courtesy of the author.

Bangle Bracelet – Step by step2

Putting it all together.
This is an ideal time to make a practice piece with the 12-gauge copper mandrel and the copper twisted or round wire coils. Insert your 12-gauge mandrel wire through the middle of your focal bead and place spacer beads at either end. Add a silver bead and a spacer bead to both ends of your mandrel.

Cut 2 pieces of the same size twisted wire coiling. The length you cut will depend on the size of your wrist. My wrist is 5-3/4″ and the first 2 twisted coil pieces are just short of 3/4″. Increasing or decreasing the length of your twisted wire coiling is how you will adjust the size of your bangle. Of course, trimming is easier than adding, so be generous in the beginning.

Add spacers, silver beads (beads shown are 10 mm in diameter) and then spacers at either end of the mandrel. Add a piece of twisted wire coiling (mine is 1/2″). Add spacers for your end pieces.

To keep all the components on your mandrel, you need to add eyes to each end. To make the first eye, grasp one end of your 12-gauge wire near the bottom jaws of your round nose pliers, and rotate your pliers hand away from your body. Your eyes should be made so that they lie flat when the bangle is placed on a table. With your chain nose pliers, place the tip of the pliers at the joint and rotate your hand towards your body. This will make the eye stand upright.

To make the same size eye on the other end, you’ll need to know how much wire you used to create the first eye. This is best accomplished if you’re working with a practice copper mandrel. To determine this length, mark the joint of your first eye with an indelible pen and also mark the area on your round nose pliers where you made the eye. Reinsert your round nose pliers and straighten the eye. Measure the wire from the joint out. You now know the length of wire you need to leave at the other end of your bangle each time you make an eye (at the same place on your round nose pliers).

Reform the first eye. Cinch all components down towards the eye. Measure the amount of wire left on your mandrel. Trim the wire if necessary, and form your second eye.

Once you have both eyes completed and facing the same direction, gently curve your piece so that when you place your bangle on a table, the eyes are parallel to the table. Don’t curve the bangle so much that the eyes meet; leave enough space in the middle to allow for your clasp.

Swan clasp.
Cut 4-1/2″ of 14-gauge silver round wire and blunt cut both ends. Using your chasing hammer, flatten 1/4″ of one end of the wire on the anvil or steel bench block.

Insert the flattened end into the tip of the pliers with barely any wire sticking out. Rotate the pliers away from your body, forming a small loop. I used small round nose pliers but you can use larger ones as well.

In the back of your long round nose pliers, insert the wire with the loop above the tip and facing you.

Rotate your pliers away from you. Notice how the larger loop is made in the opposite direction of the small loop.

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Grasp the other end of the wire with the tip of your round nose pliers.

Have as little of the wire peeking through the jaws as possible, and rotating your hand away from your body, make a small loop. Continue laying down wire right next to the loop. Grasp your developing spiral with your chain nose pliers and continue to spiral until you measure 1-5/8″ from end to end.

Grasp the wire next to your spiral with your chain nose pliers.

With the thumb of your free hand, press against the tail of the wire and form a bend. Grasp the loop with your long round nose pliers and gently urge the wire to rest next to the spiral. Partially close the clasp with the round nose pliers.

With your chasing hammer, flatten the curve of your large loop and the “v” bend at the bottom of the clasp. Open one eye of your bangle and insert your clasp through the bottom “v” and close the eye.

Adjustments.
The moment of truth has arrived. Too big? Too little? Or, just perfect! If you’re in the perfect group, consider yourself lucky and move on to Step 14.

After making hundreds of bangles I still make many, many (did I say many?) adjustments. So, if your bangle looks like it would fit your ankle instead of your wrist, you’ll need to trim off some of your coiled twisted wire and your mandrel as well. Open one eye, slip off your components and begin trimming. Remember to trim equal amounts from the left and right sides to maintain balance in your design. If your bangle is too small, unfortunately you will need to cut a longer mandrel and make longer pieces of coiled twisted wire to get your extra length. If you made a practice piece, this will be no problem.

Antique and polish
Antiquing (oxidizing) your bangle is a matter of personal preference. Antiquing will give the wirework more depth and contrast and a bit of an Old World look. I antique my silver by dipping it into a hot solution of liver-of-sulfur — smelly, but very effective.

To create the liver-of-sulfur solution, place a pea-sized chunk of liver-of-sulfur in 1-1/2 cups of near-boiling water. For obvious reasons, please don’t heat your water with the sulfur in it. Use an old bowl that you reserve only for antiquing. Do your antiquing out of doors and avoid inhaling the noxious fumes. Dip your jewelry into the solution until the silver turns a steel gray and then rinse in cold water. After the jewelry dries, clean the silver with #000 steel wool, then polish with a jewelry polishing cloth.

Congratulations! I do hope you enjoyed making your bangle. Wear it in good health and happiness.

Statement-Making AZ Jewelry Swarovski Crystal Black Bangle Bracelet

Complete a glamorous monochrome ensemble with a Swarovski Crystal Black Bangle Bracelet from AZ Jewelry. It will surely make a statement that will keep you appealing all throughout the day and for every season.

It actually looks simple in jet black shade, but since it is made of resin, it produces gleaming effect that could already give you a polished look. Also, it features a dazzling white Swarovski crystal band, which is evidently seen as it is incorporated against the black tone. This is enough to give your look a dazzling radiance, which you could show off for years. It is then complete with a magnetic hinge closure for fastening.

For such a timeless and appealing Swarovski Crystal Black Bangle Bracelet, the price of $275 is indeed very affordable. This indeed makes it a treat since as said, you could use it on a daily basis, from day to night and from every season as well.

  

WooU: Swarovski Crystals

When I first started getting interested in jewelry (thanks to Brenda Kinsel), I shopped around, looking for pieces that I thought would fit my style.

At first, I was a little bling-shy; I preferred to stay away from pieces that were too sparkly; I didn’t want to do it wrong and look gaudy (God forbid!).

And then my jewelry-making friend Kellee made me a pair of earrings.

Oh, how I loved those earrings! They were the first pair of dangly earrings I ever owned. They were feminine; they were sparkly; they were pink, and they still went with everything I wore! Best of all, because they were dangly, they moved with me, giving extra polish to my every movement.

Kellee told me that she made them with Swarovski crystals.

“Huh?” I asked. “What are Swarovski crystals?”

She didn’t really know, but I didn’t really care because — ooh! Sparkly!

But now that I’m “in the biz” myself, I wanna know what Swarovski crystals are and why they’re so highly prized!

Making a Swarovski disc pendant necklace

April 21, 2009 by Cyndi Lavin
Filed under Bead Stringing, Bead Weaving, Beading, Technique Tuesday, Tutorials & Techniques, Wearable Art

2 Comments

Technique Tuesday!

With a gorgeous Swarovski disc as the centerpiece, this necklace combines bead weaving with basic stringing.  All the bead supplies are available from Artbeads.com

I found it easiest to create the bead woven bail first, and then to string up the necklace.

Materials

Copper tube with loop
Mixture of 11/0 and 8/0 seed beads in coppery and red colors
Nymo O, black
G-S Hypo tube cement
2 copper discs, 10mm
24″ beading wire (SoftFlex)
Copper toggle clasp
2 crimps
2 copper crimp covers
20 copper rondelles, 6 mm
10 facetted glass rondelles, 8 mm
40 round glass beads, 11mm

Tools
Beading needles
Wire cutters
Chain nose pliers
Measuring tape

Step by step instructions

Ornament Thursday

Source: Katie’s Beading Blog: Ornament Thursday

These two buggy little friends are easy to whip up with some craft wire and leftover beads. They make fun additions to gifts, or you can use them as ornaments or jewelry. Experiment with the beads you have on-hand or find complete instructions in my book Simple & Stylish Bead Accents (KP Books 2005).

This month’s Ornament Thursday theme is Insectica. Check out all of these links for other fun ideas inspired by butterflies, dragonflies, beetles and other winged things:

Art Bead Scene: Dragonflies are all the rage, art beads & brass combine in a 1920′s inspired necklace.

Savvy Crafter: See some cute as a bug pins over on Candie’s blog….

Beading Help Web’: Make this cute dragonfly anklet for summer in just minutes!

Humblebeads: Flying to a fashionable ear near you, a free project from Humblebeads.

Swelldesigner: You’ll get butterflies when you see this summer-inspired necklace with butterfly pendant

Linda at Make It Mine magazine: Make your own dragonfly top–check out the instructions and video!

http design: Insects are crawling out and about at http design this month as Helen and Michelle get clay happy with some cool designs.

Hali Chambers: Make Grasshopper Notes for you or a friend!

Finding Great Plans For Making A Jewelry Box

If you are interested in making a jewelry box, then one of the first things that you are going to have to do is actually find plans for making a jewelry box. However getting the plans for making a jewelry box is only the first step, and there are many more steps that you have to take.

When you are trying to find plans for making a jewelry box, then one of the first places that you are going to want to go to look for them is at your local arts and crafts store, and here you should be able to find a great selection of plans for making a jewelry box, as well as all the materials that you are going to need in order to actually make the jewelry box.